
Installation Instructions
Vinyl Floor:
Read Completely Before Starting Installation
All installed boards will be considered as accepted by the installer and/or homeowner. Any defects
should be reported to the wholesaler or retailer immediately for inspection and/or replacement.
We cannot accept responsibility for flooring installed with visible defects.
General Precautions
These floating floor products are inspected for quality before being packed and shipped.
Nevertheless, a final job site inspection of your flooring must be preformed for grade, colour, finish
and quality. Ensure adequate lighting for proper inspection. Room temperature and humidity of the
installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least a week
before installation. Room temperature of 150-300C and a humidity range of 30-70% is recommended.
VINYL should never be exposed to surface temperatures greater than 420C. It is
most important that you install the flooring once you open the cartons, recommended within 2-3
hours. Do not leave cartons opened nor store directly on concrete or near outside walls.
The Effect of Moisture, Humidity and Extreme Weather Conditions LAMINATE
Laminate flooring will expand when exposed to moisture and humidity, and contract if subject to
prolonged dry heat.
- It is the responsibility of the installer and the owner to ensure an effective moisture barrier
is installed to prevent moisture ingress from below.
- The humidity of a room can vary due to many factors – the change of seasons for example.
The floor must be able to expand and contract all directions.
While VINYL floors are waterproof, they will still contract and expand according
to extreme weather conditions. Therefore, appropriate expansion gaps must be installed.
General Installation Notes
- When possible, pre-select and set aside boards that blend best with all floor beadings,
skirting boards or mounted mouldings used, to ensure a uniform final appearance of the
floor.
- Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards in adjacent rows. They should be staggered
at mid point when the boards are equal length. When installing boards of random length,
ensure that the staggered length is at least 20cm. This will help ensure a more favourable
overall appearance of the floor.
The Importance of Expansion Gaps
Expansion Gaps are essential as a floating floor must be allowed to move as a “raft”. If the raft
is too big for the space in which it is laid, the floor has nowhere to move and will potentially result
in cupping, peaking and gapping. Floors laid without an appropriate expansion gap will not be
covered under warranty.
- Internal expansion gaps – Installations exceeding 30Mx15M
in width or length will require an internal expansion gap using a Z-Profile or T-moulding.
If the floor is bigger than this, it will have too much weight and not be able to move as
designed.
- Perimeter expansion gaps – Should be a minimum of 10mm for VINYL floors around the perimeter of the floating floor to allow it to move naturally. Scotia and beading will adequately cover perimeter expansion gaps. In the case of larger raft sizes for VINYL floors, the expansion gap should be at least 12-15mm.
- Always allow a minimum 10-15mm expansion gap around all vertical obstructions such as
kitchen islands. 5mm is acceptable for VINYL and can be caulked with a flexible filler.
- All doorways and adjoining rooms should have expansion joints. Door frames need to be undercut to allow movement of the floating floor raft.
Subfloor Preparation
CONCRETE
Ensure your subfloor is clean, flat, smooth and level. Height differences of more than 3mm+/- over
1 metre must be levelled. Correct any changes in height difference and ensure that the levelling
compound has cured prior to starting your installation.
WOOD AND OTHER SURFACES
Ensure that your subfloor is clean, flat, smooth and level. 3mm+/- over 1 meter must be levelled.
Correct any changes in height difference and ensure that the levelling compound has cured prior
to starting your installation.
Underlay Requirements
Underlays thicker than 1.5mm are unsuitable for these products as it will cause too much deflection,
potentially weakening the locking system
Preparing to Install
- Clean and sweep.
- Let the opened packages of flooring lie flat on the floor for at least 24-48 hours in the room
in which the floor is to be installed.
- Check door and door frame clearances to ensure that doors will move freely without
contacting the floor surface.
- Although floating floors can be installed in any direction, as a rule, they are usually installed
perpendicular to a window. Installing the floor parallel to the longest wall tends to make a
room appears larger. You will get better results by laying two or three rows in advance to get
an eye pleasing distribution of the plank.
Vinyl flooring is not recommended for use outdoors, in saunas or solariums. Do not install in room that will not be in a controlled environment all year round. Vinyl flooring exposed
to sunrays for long periods will be damaged. Protect your vinyl floor by adding curtains or blinds.
Please note that light color variations and minor gloss level differences are considered to be normal
from one production to another, and therefore cannot be considered as a defect.
- First plank, first row. Place a spacer 10-15mm thickness to the left and position the
plank against the wall with spacers of 10-15mm.
- Second plank, first row. Press the short end of the next floorboard at an angle to the
first one, then lay down. Complete the first row. The boards can also be lightly tapped
up without lifting.
- At the end of the first row, place a spacer 10-15mm to the wall and cut the length of
the last plank to fit.
- Cut with a Saw, Knife, or Guillotine for vinyls with the
decor turned down.
- Second row, First plank. Minimum length 300mm. Place a spacer against the wall.
- Minimum distance between the short ends of planks in parallel shall not be less than
200mm.
- Place a floorboard at an angle against the floorboard in the previous row, press
forward and fold down at the same time. A rubber mallet and tapping block may
be necessary.
- Second plank, second row. Place the short end of the floorboard at an angle against
the previously installed floorboard. Fold down. The boards can also be tapped up
without lifting.
- Lift floorboard (together with the previously installed floorboard in the same row)
lightly up (about 30mm) and push it against the row in front. Push down when the
floorboards are positioned tightly together.
- After 2-3rows adjust the distance to the front wall by placing spacers 10-15mm.
- If the wall is uneven the floorboards must be adapted to its contours. Mark the
floorboards with the contour of the wall. Do not forget to leave a 10-15mm space
to the wall.
- To remove the first row, lift the floorboards a few centimeters and tap along the joint.
Cut the floorboards as required.
- Reinstall the first row from left to right. Press the boards against the edges of the floorboards that are already in position, with the first strip.
- Last row. Minimum width 30mm. Remember, the space to the wall is 10-15mm.
TIP! Place a spacer before measuring. Cut the panels lengthwise and install.